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Total USD $2,899.00 *

EB00066

DESTINATION 1.9 WOOD INSERT

Fuel type : Dry cordwood (16" recommended)
Heating area : 250 - 1,200 Ft2
Maximum heat output : 45,000 BTU/h (13.16 kW)

Maximum recommended heating area by climate zone Consult our map

* Prices do not include taxes, freight, installation charges, duties, and customs fees if applicable.

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  • Description
  • Options/Accessories
  • Specs/Manual
  • Support/parts
  • Reviews (23)

Description

Designed for the smallest masonry hearths thanks to its tapered shape, the Destination 1.9 is a compact and easy to install wood insert. Its non-catalytic combustion and its 75% efficiency rate (the highest in its category) make it the perfect choice for those who want to transform their open fireplace into a clean and efficient heat source. To facilitate use and maintenance, its firebox has a hollow bottom for the accumulation of ashes, which helps reduce the frequency of cleaning.

Enjoy a panoramic view of the fire thanks to its large ceramic glass and arched cast iron door, fitted with a discreet black wood handle. The flush mount blower and the removable handle air control concealed in the faceplate louver give the Destination 1.9 a modern, clean finish that showcases the beauty of the flames.

Discover the additional qualities of the Enerzone Destination 1.9 wood insert

APPROVED FOR THE ISLAND OF MONTREAL

Government incentives may apply to this product.
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*Any installation must be done according to the data and drawings detailed in the owner’s manual.

The first product owner who have registered his/her warranty is 100% satisfied with this product.

September Promotion

Offer valid from September 15th to December 31st, 2024

With the purchase of a wood stove, insert or fireplace, get a free accessory:

Option A - Papyrus tool set (AC02622)

Option B - Ash vacuum cleaner (AC02586)

Option C - Start-up kit (AC01380)

Claim your promotion

*Before February 28th, 2025

Register your warranty

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Options/Accessories

Options

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32" X 44" CUTTABLE FACEPLATE (18 GA)

AC02082

Download the owner's manual

From USD $200.00 MSRP
In stock

5"Ø FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT

AC01298

From USD $90.00 MSRP
In stock

5"Ø X 4' INSULATED FLEX PIPE FOR FRESH AIR INTAKE

AC02090

From USD $45.00 MSRP
In stock

5''Ø FRESH AIR INTAKE REGISTER WITH AIRTIGHT DAMPER

AC01349

Download the owner's manual

From USD $250.00 MSRP
In stock

LINER HOOK UP SYSTEM

AC02006

Download the owner's manual

From USD $110.00 MSRP
In stock

OFFSET LINER ADAPTER

AC01214

Download the owner's manual

From USD $270.00 MSRP
In stock

RIGID FIRESCREEN

AC01213

Download the owner's manual

From USD $180.00 MSRP
In stock

Accessories

Adhesives, gaskets and insulation

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HIGH TEMPERATURE RED SILICONE (300 mL- 10.1 FL.OZ.)

AC02040

From USD $16.00 MSRP
In stock

HIGH TEMPERATURE CLEAR SILICONE (300 mL - 10.1 FL.OZ.)

AC02045

From USD $16.00 MSRP
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Paint

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METALLIC BLACK STOVE PAINT - 342 g (12oz) AEROSOL

AC05959

From USD $25.00 MSRP
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METALLIC BLACK STOVE PAINT - 85 g (3oz) AEROSOL

AC05963

From USD $15.00 MSRP
In stock

Maintenance products

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6" ROUND BRUSH WITH POLYPROPYLENE BRISTLES (3/8" NPT)

AC04500

From USD $25.00 MSRP
In stock

5' FIBREGLASS ROD (3/8'' NPT)

AC04513

From USD $15.00 MSRP
In stock

ADAPTOR (3/8'' NPT TO 1/4" FEM)

AC04514

From USD $15.00 MSRP
In stock

KEVLAR THREAD WOOD STOVE 14'' AND FIREPLACE GLOVES

AC07820

From USD $45.00 MSRP
In stock

19" KEVLAR THREAD SEWN FIREPLACE GLOVES

AC07822

From USD $60.00 MSRP
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WOOD APPLIANCE GLASS CLEANER (500 mL - 16.9 FL.OZ.)

AC07825

From USD $13.00 MSRP
In stock

Meters

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DIGITAL MOISTURE READER

AC07835

Download the owner's manual

From USD $105.00 MSRP
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PROBE THERMOMETER

AC07840

Download the owner's manual

From USD $20.00 MSRP
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Fire starters

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SACHET POUCHES FIRE STARTER

AC02597

From USD $12.00 MSRP
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Specs/Manual

Appliance performance (1)

Fuel type : Dry cordwood (16" recommended)
Recommended heating area-ft² : () 250 - 1,200
Overall firebox volume-ft³ : 1.1
EPA loading volume-ft³ : 1.03
Maximum heat output-dry cordwood : (2) 45,000 BTU/h (13.16 kW)
Overall heat output rate < : (2) (3) 8,471 BTU/h (2.48 kW) to 31,700 BTU/h (9.29 kW)
Average overall efficiency (dry cordwood) : (3) 75 % (HHV) (4) 80 % (LHV) (5)
Optimum efficiency : (6) (7) 82 %
Optimum heat transfer efficiency : (8) 78 %
Average particulate emissions rate : (9) 1.5 g/h
Average CO : (10) 34 g/h

(1) Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume, maximum burn time and maximum heat output.

(2) The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft³ and 20 lb/ft³ and reloading intervals ranging from 60 to 120 minutes. Other performances are based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard without any reloading between start and finish. The specified loading density varies between 7 lb/ft³ and 12 lb/ft³. The moisture content is between 19% and 25%.

(3) As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method.

(4) Higher Heating Value of the fuel.

(5) Lower Heating Value of the fuel.

(6) Performances based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard at 7 lb/ft³ and with a moisture content between 19% and 25%.

(7) Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV).

(8) The optimum heat transfer efficiency is for the low burn rate (using HHV) and represents the appliance’s ability to convert the energy contained in the wood logs into energy transferred to the room in the form of heat and does not take into account the chemical losses during combustion.

(9) This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency.

(10) Carbon monoxyde.

General features

Combustion technology Non-catalytic
Maximum burn time 7 h
High-efficiency certified appliance Yes, EPA 2020 approved
Maximum log length 17"
Log positioning Loading over width
Chimney diameter 6"
Flue outlet diameter 6"
Type of chimney Liner - ULC-S635, CAN/ULC-S640, UL1777
Minimum chimney height (feet) 12'
Baffle type C-Cast or equivalent
Approved for a mobile home installation No
Shipping Weight 336 lb (152 kg)
Door type Single, glass with cast iron frame
Glass type Ceramic glass
Glass surface – dimensions (Width X Height) 18" X 8 1/8"
Glass air-wash system Yes
Premium quality blower included (CFM) 90
Overall dimension (Height) 23 7/8"
Overall dimension (Width) 36"
Overall dimension (Depth) 21"
Door opening – dimension (Height) 7 7/8"
Door opening - dimension (Width) 18 1/4"
Firebox – dimension (Height) 8 7/8"
Firebox – dimension (Width) 16 3/4"
Firebox – dimension (Depth) 12 3/8"
Moulded refractory bricks Yes
Stainless-steel secondary-air system improving gas combustion Yes
Steel thickness – body 3/16"
Steel thickness – top 3/16"
Fireplace opening – minimum (Height) 19"
Fireplace opening – minimum (Width) 25"
Fireplace opening – minimum (Depth) 15 1/2"
USA standard (emissions) EPA
Canadian Standard (emissions) CSA B415.1-10
USA standard (safety) UL 1482, UL 737
Canadian standard (safety) ULC S628
Tested and listed as per applicable standards By an accredited laboratory (CAN/USA)
Warranty Limited lifetime
Minimum clearances to combustibles*
(Data expressed in inches. 1 inch = 25.4 mm)
  Canada United-States
Clearance – top (measured from the platform on which the appliance is installed)** 72" 72"
Clearance – combustible side mantle to unit 1" 1"
Clearance – combustible top mantle to unit 1" 1"
Clearance – combustible side wall to unit 16" 16"
Clearance - from the shelf to the base of the fireplace 34" 34"

* The information given on the certification label affixed to the appliance always overrides the information published in any other media (owner's manual, catalogues, flyers, magazines and/or web sites).

** Some appliances have been tested with a low ceiling. Before setting up your unit, refer to the installation manual.

Support/parts

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Do I need an EPA certified or CSAB415.1-10 certified heater?

You first have to identify what your needs are. If you are looking for ambiance, a temporary heat source in a cottage or a camp, or a simple back-up heat source in case of power failure, you do not necessarily need to invest more money in order to buy an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified wood heater. However, if your goal is to heat on a regular basis, the extra dollars will prove to be a good investment. Furthermore, it must be noted that certified heaters release up to 90% less particles into the atmosphere, which makes wood a renewable and clean source of heat. As a result, if the style and size of the heater you are looking for is available in a certified version, it is highly recommended that you invest in this advanced combustion technology. You will help the environment and reduce your wood consumption by up to 30%.

NOTE: If you live in the United Sates, British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick or Newfoundland, EPA certified wood heaters are mandatory. Exceptions apply for certain categories of products, such as decorative fireplaces. Certain municipalities may also have by-laws that require the installation of an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 wood heater, even though the province does not have an official regulation on wood heating. It must also be noted that in Canada, the CSAB415.1-10 Standard is equivalent to the EPA Standard. A wood heater that meets this Standard will generally comply with the regulation in place.


How do I determine the size of heater I need and where should I install it?

Before answering this question, it is very important that you clearly identify what your needs are. Some people will buy a heater simply to enhance the ambiance of a room, while others will buy a heater as their main source of heat. There is no good or bad reason for buying a wood-heat system. If you simply want to enhance the ambiance of a room, most small to medium size heaters will suit your needs. Simply chose the style you like best, and put the unit in the room where you spend the most time. The heat and look of a glowing fire will create an atmosphere of warmth and coziness.

If your primary need is to heat, you must verify the heating capacity of your heater based on the technical data provided by the manufacturer. For instance, if you want to heat an 800-square-foot area on one floor, you need to buy a heater with a minimum capacity of 800 sq. ft.

If you need to heat more than one floor, keep in mind that heat rises. Therefore, a heater located in your basement will help you heat the main floor as well. However, the contrary is not true; a heater located on the main floor (ground floor) will not heat the basement. Keep in mind also that the more divisions there are in the house, the harder it will be to distribute the heat evenly.

If you need to heat two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor. Then, add 50% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a wood-heating system in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,200 sq.ft. (800 + 400 = 1,200.

If you need to heat more than two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor (where the wood-heating system is located). Then, add 50% of the surface of the middle floor, and 25% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a heater in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft. (800+400+200= 1,400). Consult the drawing below. It will help you understand the explanations provided in this section.

REMEMBER: We are talking about "zone" heating, not central heating. The room where the heater is located and the rooms directly above it will always reach higher temperatures than the rooms distant from the unit. If you want an even temperature throughout the house, you need to consider a central heating system, such as a warm air wood furnace. Furthermore, you must keep in mind that the size of the heater you need may vary based on the insulation of your house, its exposure to wind, and the number of windows. It will always be prudent to buy a heater with a capacity that is slightly higher than the minimum capacity that you need. For instance, if you need a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft., it will be more prudent to buy a heater with a capacity of 1,600 sq.ft., if not 1,800 sq.ft. There are three main advantages in buying a larger appliance: the increased heating capacity, the ease of loading more and larger logs (as a result of the greater firebox volume), and the increased combustion time (given the higher loading capacity).

The drawing above gives an example of the minimum heating capacity required for a wood-heating system installed in a house with three floors of 800 sq.ft. each. We assume that the house is well insulated and that air can circulate between each floor through an open stairway and/or floor traps.

Why is the efficiency as per the EPA’s test data smaller than the publicized optimum efficiency?

EPA refers to the CSAB415.1-10 standard for the calculation of the appliance’s efficiency. The efficiency reported as per EPA’s directives consists of an average between four different burn rates, ranging from the lowest burn rate (air intake completely closed) to the highest burn rate (air intake completely open). The optimum efficiency that we publicize is the efficiency obtained according to the same test data, but for the low burn rate only. This efficiency is more realistic for a majority of users whose heating needs require that the unit be used to maximize burn times.

Does my heater qualify under the LEED program?

The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building Rating System™ encourages and accelerates global adoption of sustainable green building and development practices through the creation and implementation of universally understood and accepted tools and performance criteria. LEED is a third-party certification program and an internationally accepted benchmark for the design, construction and operation of high performance green buildings. It provides building owners and operators the tools they need to have an immediate and measurable impact on their buildings’ performance.

The Canadian Green Building Council (CGBC) certifies LEED projects. The Certification is based on the total point score achieved, following an independent review and an audit of selected Credits. With four possible levels of certification (certified, silver, gold and platinum), LEED® is flexible enough to accommodate a wide range of green building strategies that best fit the constraints and goals of particular projects. The Canadian rating systems are an adaptation of the US Green Building Council's (USGBC) LEED Green Building Rating System, tailored specifically for Canadian climates, construction practices and regulations. The rating systems are adapted to the Canadian market through an inclusive process that engages stakeholders and experts representing the various sectors of the Canadian industry.

Wood or pellet stoves, fireplaces, and inserts can qualify under LEED and obtain up to one point provided that they meet the following criteria.





Why doesn't my heater produce enough heat?

Possible causes and solutions:

1- The moisture content of your wood is too high.

Solution: Make sure you use good, seasoned wood. The wood you burn plays an important role in the overall performance of your heater. Your wood should have been properly dried for about one year. Furthermore, it is better to use hardwood, such as oak, maple, beech, or ash. For the same volume, hardwood will produce more heat. Storage is also very important. Wood that has been cut for one, two or even more years, will not necessarily be dry if it has been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions, it may have rotted instead of drying. Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. The wood should be stored in a place where the grass is not too long, and where the wind will be able to circulate between the logs. A 12-inch gap should be kept between the cords. The wood should be placed in the sunniest area and should be protected from the rain and snow on top, but not on the sides. Use a moisture reader to measure the moisture content of your wood. Ideally, it should be below 25%.

2- The air control mechanism is not open enough.

Solution: Adjust the air control mechanism in order to keep the flue temperature within the comfort zone (between 250 °F and 475 °F) on your chimney thermometer. The air control mechanism must always be closed gradually. You need to obtain a good bed of red embers and the logs must be completely lit up before you close the air control completely. This can easily take up to one hour.

3- The logs that you are using are too big.

Solution: Use smaller pieces of wood and place them to allow proper air circulation between the logs. The same weight of wood cut in many small pieces will produce more heat than fewer, larger logs. Only add big logs when you have a good bed of red embers. Logs with a diameter exceeding 6 inches should always be split. Avoid stacking logs to the top of the firebox.

4- The chimney draft is too weak.

Solution #1: In many cases, a weak draft is simply due to insufficient heat in the exhaust system. Build a small, intense fire, and leave the door ajar (never leave the heater unattended). Before inserting larger logs, use dry kindling to obtain a good bed of red embers. Gradually increase the size of the logs. Close the unit’s door when you reach a flue temperature of approximately 475 °F on the chimney thermometer. Leave the air intake fully open for approximately 15 minutes. Then, gradually close the air intake control. Note that there is no danger in letting the temperature inside the flue reach approximately 700 °F during the start-up. This is even favorable in order to properly start your heater. You must, however, avoid maintaining excessive temperatures (above the comfort zone on your thermometer) during a long period of time. Your chimney thermometer should be positioned on the exhaust pipe, approximately 18 inches above the unit.

Solution #2: Your heater may not have all the oxygen it needs to allow for a sufficient draft. You first need to ensure that the room where the heater is located is sufficiently large and well ventilated. Open the nearest window by approximately 2 inches. If you notice a significant improvement, it is a sign that the unit needs more oxygen. The room may be too insulated or too small. Without an additional source of oxygen, the draft will remain weak and cause the glass stay dirty.

Solution #3: The chimney may be too short. In order to obtain a sufficient draft, your chimney must have a minimum height. Twelve feet (from the heater to the chimney cap outside the house) is a minimum. A height of 15 feet or higher is ideal.

Solution #4: Your exhaust system may be too restrictive or may lack a sufficient rise. Ideally, your exhaust system should not have more than one 90° elbow. Furthermore, all horizontal sections should be as short as possible and have a minimum slope of ¼" per foot.

Solution #5: Your exhaust system may be oversized. When your chimney is oversized, the volume of air that needs to be warmed-up is larger. It is therefore difficult to reach temperatures that will allow for a sufficient draft. Most advanced combustion systems (those certified to EPA/CSAB415.1-10) have a 6" flue outlet (152 mm). If your exhaust system does not have a 6" diameter, a solution is to insert a stainless liner with a 6" diameter inside the exhaust system.

If you have verified all the points mentioned above and your heater works fine, but still does not produce enough heat, you may be asking for more than what your appliance can realistically give you.

Stoves, fireplaces, and inserts are used for "zone heating”. It is normal that the heat is distributed unevenly inside your home. It will always be colder in the rooms that are distant from the heater. Furthermore, since heat rises, a heater located at the ground-floor level will not heat your basement.

Solution 6: It is possible to increase heat circulation between the floors by installing floor traps. The location of your heater is also important. Try to install it in a central location. If you want to heat both your basement and the ground floor, install your heater in the basement. The heat will rise to the upper floors. Verify that the area you try to heat respects your appliance’s heating capacity. Your appliance’s heating capacity can be found on the printed literature, in the owner’s manual, or in the technical data section on our web site. Keep in mind that your appliance's heating capacity assumes optimum conditions. It may be too low in situations where a house is poorly insulated, or highly exposed to wind. If you already have an appliance with a high heating capacity that works normally but does not heat enough, you probably need a central heating system, such as a warm air wood furnace.

Why does the fire go out when I close the loading door?

Possible causes and solutions:

1- The moisture content of your wood is too high.

Solution: Make sure you use good, seasoned cord wood. The wood you burn plays an important role in the overall performance of your heater. Your wood should have been properly dried for approximately one year. Storage is also key. Wood that has been cut for one, two or even more years will not necessarily be dry if it has been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions, it may have rotten instead of drying. Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. The wood should be stored in a place where the grass is not too long, and where the wind will be able to circulate between the logs. A 12-inch gap should be kept between the cords. The wood should be placed in the sunniest area and should be protected from the rain and snow on top, but not on the sides. Use a moisture reader to measure the moisture content of your wood. Ideally, it should be below 25%.

2- The air control mechanism is not open enough.

Solution: Adjust the air control mechanism in order to keep the flue temperature within the comfort zone (between 250 °F and 475 °F) on your chimney thermometer. The air control mechanism must always be closed gradually. You need to obtain a good bed of red embers and the logs must be completely lit up before you close the air control completely. This can easily take up to one hour.

3- The logs that you are using are too big.

Solution: Use smaller pieces of wood and place them to allow proper air circulation between the logs. The same weight of wood cut in many small pieces will produce more heat than fewer, larger logs. Only add big logs when you have a good bed of red embers. Logs with a diameter exceeding 6 inches should always be split. Avoid stacking logs to the top of the firebox.

4- The chimney draft is too weak.

Solution #1: In many cases, a weak draft is simply due to insufficient heat in the exhaust system. Build a small, intense fire, and leave the door ajar (never leave the heater unattended). Before inserting larger logs, use dry kindling to obtain a good bed of red embers. Gradually increase the size of the logs. Close the unit’s door when you reach a flue temperature of approximately 475 °F on the chimney thermometer. Leave the air intake fully open for approximately 15 minutes. Then, gradually close the air intake control. Note that there is no danger in letting the temperature inside the flue reach approximately 700 °F during the start-up. This is even favorable in order to properly start your heater. You must, however, avoid maintaining excessive temperatures (above the comfort zone on your thermometer) during a long period of time. Your chimney thermometer should be positioned on the exhaust pipe, approximately 18 inches above the unit.

Solution #2: Your heater may not have all the oxygen it needs to allow for a sufficient draft. You first need to ensure that the room where the heater is located is sufficiently large and well ventilated. Open the nearest window by approximately 2 inches. If you notice a significant improvement, it is a sign that the unit needs more oxygen. The room may be too insulated or too small. Without an additional source of oxygen, the draft will remain weak and cause the glass stay dirty.

Solution #3: The chimney may be too short. In order to obtain a sufficient draft, your chimney must have a minimum height. Twelve feet (from the heater to the chimney cap outside the house) is a minimum. A height of 15 feet or higher is ideal.

Solution #4: Your exhaust system may be too tortuous or may lack a sufficiently steep slope. Ideally, your exhaust system should not have more than one 90° elbow. Furthermore, all horizontal sections should be as short as possible and have a minimum slope of 1/4" per foot.

Solution #5: Your exhaust system may be oversized. When your chimney is oversized, the volume of air that needs to be warmed-up is larger. It is therefore difficult to reach temperatures that will allow for a sufficient draft. Most advanced combustion systems (those certified to EPA/CSAB415.1-10) have a 6" flue outlet (152 mm). If your exhaust system does not have a 6" diameter, a solution is to insert a stainless liner with a 6" diameter inside the exhaust system.

Why is the BTU according to EPA test data smaller than the one advertised?

 

You will notice a difference between the BTU output as per the EPA’s test data and what is advertised on our web site and/or product literature. The maximum BTU output we advertise is what will be obtained with a full load of seasoned cordwood inserted inside the firebox. The EPA output, on the other hand, is what has been obtained during emissions testing. The EPA test procedure requires that a special type of wood is used and positioned inside the firebox in a manner that does not represent the way the firebox volume would normally be utilized using seasoned cordwood. The EPA test load is typically much smaller. Hence, the BTU as per the EPA’s test data is reduced. The BTU output that should be considered by a normal user is the one we advertise for seasoned cordwood.

 

Will my insert work in the case of a power failure?

Your insert can be used in a power failure. An insert is built like a wood stove. The only thing that will not work in a power failure is the blower. Operating your insert without the blower will not damage the unit. The disadvantage is that you will not benefit from the heat circulation around the insert’s jacket. Inserts come with a blower because a large portion of the unit is inserted into a masonry opening. The heat that radiates from the portion of the firebox inserted into the masonry hearth does not reach the room as it would with a freestanding wood stove. This is why inserts have a jacket built around the back portion of their firebox. The heat is trapped inside that jacket and is pushed back in front of the stove and into the room with a blower. Without electricity, you will not recover as much heat from the unit. The radiating heat will come mainly from the glass and the front portion of the insert. 

What burn time will I get from my wood heater?

 

The combustion time for an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified, non-catalytic wood appliance depends on many factors, the most important being the size of its firebox. Heaters with a 2.0 cubic foot firebox or more will normally have longer burn-times. From 6 to 8 hours is about the burn time you will get. Some companies will advertise longer burn times, but be careful, this calculation is made from the time you light the fire to the time there is absolutely no combustible left into the firebox. No matter what the appliance model is, the maximum BTU output will be obtained over approximately 33% of the total burn cycle. This represents 2 to 3 hours for a medium-size stove. So realistically, you will have to reload the unit every 3 or 4 hours in order to get the maximum heat out of your appliance when you are home. If you don’t reload the heater and let it burn the remaining fuel, your output will slowly decrease until there is no useful heat left to produce (we call this the “tail end” of the combustion cycle). This “tail end” will provide heat for another 4 to 5 hours. So if you are looking for a 6 to 8-hour burn time, make sure you choose an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified wood heater with a BTU output (using cordwood) of 60,000 BTU or more. Appliances with that kind of output all have fairly large fireboxes. If you are going to rely mostly on wood for heating and your house has more than 2,000 square feet, do not hesitate to choose one of our larger units (>85,000 BTU). Those appliances will have a burn time of approximately 8 to 10 hours.

What is the advantage of installing a wood insert into a masonry fireplace?

 

An insert is a specially designed appliance intended for installation into a masonry fireplace. Inserts are used to convert conventional masonry fireplaces into effective heating systems. The insert firebox is surrounded by an outer shell. Room air flows between the insert body and the outer shell where it is heated before being returned to the room by natural convection or transferred mechanically. Most of the heat is delivered to the room instead of being trapped behind the insert in the masonry structure. A decorative faceplate covers the space between the insert and the fireplace opening.

A Guide to Residential Wood Heating



 

Why does my wood insert blower not move a lot of air?

All of our inserts and blowers are designed to complement each other. It is a matter of achieving the greatest amount of heat transfer from the unit. The key is to design the insert so air can move and extract the greatest amount of heat without cooling the firebox and hindering the efficiency of the unit. If the blower velocity were to be increased, it would give the impression that the unit heats more. However, it would actually blow cooler air and reduce the unit's efficiency. A hot firebox will burn better and cleaner. A slower but hotter air displacement is therefore always preferable. The same principle applies to the heat sensor available on many models. It is better for the heat sensor to activate the blower later, when the unit is very hot, rather than activating it too early and blow cooler air when the unit is still completing its start-up phase.

 

Can I install a liner with a 5-inch or 5.5-inch diameter?

All of our inserts are designed to function with a 6" liner. However, it is adequate to install a 5" or 5.5" liner when the masonry chimney is too tight for a 6" liner. Under certain conditions, the probability of a drafting issue is increased, which could favor smoke spillage and/or reduce combustion quality. But generally speaking, the vast majority of homeowners who properly install a 5" or 5.5" liner and use good heating techniques will be very satisfied with the performance of their wood insert.

Reviews

Mark Lim - 2024-10-30   

Paul Buchman - 2024-10-16   

Only had one smaller fire so far. Was worried about the size of the window but not anymore.

Zackary Fredericks - 2024-10-12   

Elaine Krimbow - 2024-09-29   

Alejandro Lopez Teran - 2024-09-03   

David Weston - 2024-08-23   

Still installing it. Not much to say yet.

Maxime Allaire Beaudoin - 2024-06-24   

Susan Jereza - 2024-06-20   

BOB CASSIDY - 2024-04-29   

This unit works awesome and the installation went very well.

Gary Bruce - 2023-12-14   

The firebox is extremely small, and I find the unit underpowered for the room it is in. I to does not heat comfortably to 1,000 sq feet as is claimed. I still need to wear a sweater in the room, which is not what I was hoping for. I would recommend this unit for a room 500 sq feet or less.

Alannah Kim - 2023-11-18   

I do like the look and the function of this Destination 1.9 Wood Insert. My home is small and I have used just one or two logs at a time with the automatic low fan setting. It heats the area nicely… it looks nice as well.

Michele Zigman - 2023-10-16   

I am pleased with the quality of the insert. It fit beautifully and appears to be well made.

Emily Alexander - 2023-10-14   

Terry Elfers - 2023-10-12   

CHAD ROACH - 2023-08-08   

Joseph Pence - 2023-07-10   

Anne Stillwaggon - 2023-03-27   

Julie Williams - 2023-03-20   

Robert Locke - 2023-02-23   

Works wonderfully

Alex Pick - 2022-12-17   

Valerie Glotfelty - 2022-11-05   

We are happy with the purchase of our wood insert Destination 1.9. It looks nice, and we’re confident that it will help reduce our heating costs. We’re getting used to a smaller fire place viewing area. We feel it is safer than what we had.

Josee Isabelle - 2022-09-22   

Cornel Van Egmond - 2022-07-24